TOUR THE SHORE: Small town sojourns

Listed from South to North
Cape Charles:
  At the Southern tip of the peninsula, this Cinderella town has undergone an amazing transformation as it recaptures its glory days when the railroad gave birth to the Victorian beauty in 1886. Several bed & breakfast inns make staying here a pleasure with eateries close by including a chic coffee house, an old fashion soda fountain in the neighborhood pharmacy and a restaurant in a restoredClick for larger mapplantation house just north of town. The Art Deco Palace Theater spotlights local, regional and national talent. An upscale marina with shops and restaurants flank the northern side of town at Bay Creek Marina. On the southern side a working town harbor offers transit docking facilities and the chance to see the Eastern Shore Railroad float rail cars on its barge across the bay the same way it did over a century ago.

Skipjack Norfolk





Here you can also watch the ongoing restoration of the 1900 Skipjack Norfolk the  second oldest surviving oyster dredging skipjack on the Chesapeake Bay, a project of the non-profit East Harbor Boat Works.

Nearby at the premier  Bay Creek Resort & Club,  two nationally ranked golf courses designed by golf legends Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer intersect along stunning water vistas. Sunsets are serene on the town’s quiet mile- long beach or from the deck of a classic schooner with cruises available out of Bay Creek Marina. Fishing is free at the town’s fun pier. For more Bay Creek Marinainformation, go to www.capecharles.org or contact the Northampton County Chamber of Commerce at 109 Mason Avenue (757) 331-2304.   www.northamptoncountychamber.com

Cheriton & Oyster: This mini-Mayberry, a tiny, friendly town with handsome Victorian homes makes for a pleasant Sunday drive any day of the week. Turn north on Sunnyside Road between the two historic churches and follow it to the authentic fishing village of Oyster. Watch watermen haul in their catch of famed blue crabs, oysters and clams near the public boat ramp and future site of the Watermen’s Memorial.

Eastville: The historic courthouse green and the nation’s oldest continuous court records lend a genteel sense of history to this pretty community where wide porches are shaded by graceful old oaks. Northampton’s county seat since 1631 where a stylishly restored inn serves up gourmet lunch and dinners while a no frills bar and grill is the locals’ favorite for wing night. A unique shopping experience can be found at a European inspired atelier (studio/workshop) where an artisan couple lives and sells their creative wares. Lush flower gardens surround the town B & B, a good place to call it a night.

Barrier Island CenterMachipongo: Just further north along Rt. 13 at the historic former “poorhouse farm” is the Barrier Islands Center. Though the Eastern Shore’s chain of seaside barrier islands are mostly deserted now the museum preserves through amazing relics, photographs and written accounts the fascinating tales of those who once called these shifting sands home.
Chatham VineyardsNearby the family owned Chatham Vineyard whose 2002 Church Creek Merlot recently won the silver medal in the 2005 Governor’s Cup is opening a new tasting room and winery on its 300-acre estate set on the banks of a bay creek. Call for hours and directions (757) 678-5588.

Exmore: An antiquer’s paradise the small downtown also includes a café bakery, charming B & B and gift shops along with a designer tile and gift showroom. The town’s retro diner is the real thing. At the counter you might even sit at the same stool where Elvis rested his blue suede shoes. www.exmore.org

 Willis Wharf: “Behind” Exmore on the seaside this secluded village is an aquaculture capital raising clams and oysters in the pristine waters. Try some served in a variety of ways here at the 1850 general store turned lunch restaurant. Catch a sea breeze on the screened porch and taste why The New York Times wax poetically about their clam fritters. 

Wachapreague: The “Little City by the Sea” shines with small town friendliness. A few Charter Catch in Wachapreagueinteresting shops sell local art and gifts but its setting along emerald green marshes is the scene stealer. Marinas provide an active charter fishing fleet, boat slip rentals, bait and tackle shop and boat rentals to explore the pristine barrier islands and bird life. Dining on great seafood with water views is provided by two restaurants and sandwiches perfect for picnics can be had at the quaint general store.
Town hall (757)787-7117 or www.wachapreague.com

Melfa: Along Rt. 13, the visitors center at the Eastern Shore Chamber of Commerce will provide more information on sites to see up and down the Shore.  Go a bit further inside  the Accomack Airport Industrial Park where Blue Crab Bay Company offers award-winning specialty foods and gifts celebrating Eastern Shore traditions. Their retail shop and 30-seat covered picnic area set in woodlands are open to the public ( www.bluecrabbay.com).
David Turner in Gallery No doubt the majestic bronze sculpture of battling white tail bucks showcased outside the chamber office will entice art and animal lovers alike to see the amazing array of internationally acclaimed wildlife sculptures at Turner Sculpture just minutes north in Onley. The foundry and gallery is home to the talented father and son team who find their creative inspiration in the woods and waters of the Eastern Shore.   

Onancock: With a pretty, petite harbor, rows of gingerbread porches, clapboard steeples and old-fashion glass storefronts it’s hard not to be smitten with this charmer chartered in Carousel1680. The small town sophisticate harbors the most restaurants on the mainland from cafes to an Irish pub. Dinner and a movie take on a delightful twist with local theater spotlighted at the North Street Playhouse and the far from the multiplex madness, the endearingly retro Roseland movie theater.  Shopping opportunities abound for art, antiques, organic and gourmet food, wine and garden and home furnishings. The wharf provides safe harbor for visiting boaters as well as sports fishing and charter tours. A boutique hotel and several welcoming B & Bs make extended stays more than tempting.        
Town office [757] 787-3363 or www.onancock.com   or   www.onancock.org

Tangier Island: Sail back in time from Onancock harbor to this tiny Chesapeake Bay Island Tangier Islandto experience life lived in the tranquil rhythm of the tides. Watermen still carry on the centuries-old tradition of harvesting the waters and visitors can enjoy the fresh bounty at several of the island’s nationally recognized home-style restaurants. Rent bikes or Tangier taxis – golf carts to cruise the nearly carless isle or take a tour with a native telling island tales in their unique sing-song Elizabethan twang. A handful of shops provide perusing while the pristine sandy shores are excellent for relaxing and scouting Native American arrowheads. Take a nature cruise with a Tangier captain to fish crab pots and discover the island’s legendary soft-shell crab “farms”. Come twilight, rock on the porch of a quaint B & B and listen to the creatures of the marsh softly serenade the island.
Town of Tangier (757) 891-2438 or www.gotangierisland.com 
Tangier Cruises (757) 891-2552 or office@tangierislandcruises.com

Accomac: The best way to see this quintessential Southern town and admire its historic buildings and garden-filled homes is to stroll the shady streets. The Accomack County seat was established here in the 1600s with many of the present day homes constructed in the late 1700s through the late 19th century. The town center is the Courthouse Green at the intersection of Front St. and Courthouse Ave. The Victorian brick Clerk’s office holds historic court records dating back to 1663 and the cannon located here is from the American Revolution. The most well known town building is Debtor’s prison built in1783 as the county jailor’s residence until it was converted in 1824 to incarcerate debtors.    
A café serves breakfast and lunch.    

Confedrate MounmentParksley: Norman Rockwell would have loved this vestige of small town America especially if he was a railroad buff. With the meticulously restored railroad station situated in the town square surrounded by quaint shops, the 1885 town has the look of an old-fashion model train village. A Five and Dime, the Eastern Shore Railroad Museum, Antique Car Museum and attractive Victorian homes only add to the nostalgic atmosphere. Homespun eateries won’t let you leave hungry. Located 2 miles west off of Rt. 13, about 20 minutes south of the Maryland line.
www.parksley.com

Bloxom: The Shore’s first official winery is located on a 6 acre Victorian-era farm a mile west of Rt. 13. While the wine lasts, a tasting room is open and pizza and breads are available to visitors who can enjoy a bottle alfresco amidst the picturesque setting.
Call ahead Bloxom Vineyard & Winery: [757] 665-5670

Chincoteague: This seashore family resort town is famed for its annual Pony Penning. Wild ponies swim from their refuge home on Assateague Island across the channel to Assateague Light and Ponies Credit to Chincoteague Chamber of CommerceChincoteague Island to be auctioned off as immortalized in the 1947 children’s book and later movie, Misty of Chincoteague. But with all it has to offer it’s far from a one horse town. Shopping in the pedestrian-friendly downtown ranges from decoys to dresses and antique to art. Fresh off the dock seafood is found in a variety of restaurants, but Italian, Vietnamese and Thai cuisine add to the dining options. Lodging is equally varied from family-owned motels to charming B & Bs. A 1945 movie theatre is a place to catch a flick the old-fashion way. Unspoiled beaches and natural trails along with the Assateague Lighthouse provide outdoor adventures on the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. 

Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce 757-336-6161, www.chincoteaguechamber.com

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Eastern Shore of Virginia Tourism ~  P.O. Box 72  ~  Tasley Virginia ~  23441
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