Our People, Our Past

Capt. John Smith Quote

When Captain John Smith proclaimed this in 1608 surely he was reaffirming a sentiment many before and after him have felt about these fair shores. This strip of land on the Delmarva Peninsula, fortuitously situated between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the Chesapeake Bay on the west, is 22 miles at its widest point. It unfolds 70 miles southward from the Maryland line to its southernmost tip. Surrounded by pristine beach, Capt John Smith Credit to APVAmarsh and laced with waterways, it affords a beautiful vista of pine and hardwood forests among verdant farm fields, hamlets and towns. Graced with a unique beauty the Eastern Shore’s history is equally compelling.  

Asians were the first settlers who crossed the frozen northern landmass to North American 25 to 50 thousand years ago and continued southward to populate the Americas and the Eastern Shore. Here, their descendants and successors, the Occahancock and Accomack Algonquins, became stewards of a virtual Eden and struck a delicate balance with Pocahontas Saving Capt SMith - Credit Library of Congressits fertile soil, clear streams, creeks and bays and abundant wildlife. Area tribes eventually succumbed to diseases introduced by Europeans or were dispersed by aggressive colonial settlement. The Gingaskin clan of the Accomacks comprised the vast majority of the survivors. Today evidence of their fondness for seafood can still be found in ancient shell middens (refuse) buried along creek beds, reminders of centuries of shellfish harvesting. Their arrowheads and tools are also known to wash up with the tides. Native American influence carried over to the names of Eastern Shore towns and villages such as Chincoteague, Assateague, Pungoteague, Assawoman, Onancock, and Chesapeake, which means “great shellfish bay”.    

Approximately 500 years ago in 1524, the next wave of settlers was preceded by the Italian Giovanni Da Verranzo in the employ of the French, and the Spaniard Lucus Vasquez d'Ayllca in the employ of the Spanish Crown. Verranzo landed on Assateague Island and traversed the peninsula to its eastern waters, naming what we now know as the Chesapeake Bay the "Western Sea".  D'Ayllca sailed into and mapped the numerous eastern bays and creeks on the Chesapeake Bay side of the Eastern Shore.

Captain John Smith guided the struggling English colony of Jamestown and in 1608 led an exploring party and mapped the Chesapeake Bay region with amazing accuracy, including the Eastern Shore where he “modestly” named one of the southern most islands, Smith Island. It is the same isle where infamous pirate captain, Edward Teach –Blackbeard cleaned the hull of his ship in 1717, a spot still known as Blackbeard’s Cove.

The Jamestown government obtained land on the Eastern Shore from the Indians in 1614 but came to stay in 1620. With them came the first Africans transported here to serve as slave laborers forced to work on the growing number of plantations. During the colonial era slaves proved skilled in crafts and building structures and many of the region’s impressive historic homes can be linked to early slave craftsmanship. Located on Pungoteague Creek the Eastern Shore also has the distinction of having the first African community in the English Colonies.

In 1663 the peninsula was divided into two counties, Accomack to the north and Northampton in the south. In these two counties are found the earliest continuous court records in America dating from 1632. The town of Eastville possess the oldest followed by the town of Accomac.

SpudmanFrom Colonial times to the present, agriculture has been the mainstay of the Eastern Shore economy. Early farmers grew tobacco and later turned to livestock, some of which freely grazed on the seaside barrier islands. Evidently farms raised grain crops and produce. Area creeks served as the highways for farm products that were then shipped to destination via the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic. That is until the1880s when the advent of the railroad NYPN Locomotiveliterally changed the face of the Eastern Shore. Built down the spine of the peninsula, towns and villages sprung up along the line.  

Watermen, the local vernacular for fishermen, have been tilling the tides for generations. Hauling Nets Once abundant, oysters were the pearls of the seafood industry along with the famed blue crab, clams and scallops. The docks in waterfront villages and towns bustled with activity as watermen brought in their catch and seafood packing, oyster shucking and crab picking houses stayed busy. Though oysters struggle to come back from over-harvesting and disease, blue crabs from the Eastern Shore are still a sought after commodity with soft shell crabs being Tangier Island’s claim to shellfish fame. Clam aquaculture or water farming is a multi-million dollar industry with operations in Willis Wharf, Chincoteague and Cherrystone Creek. 

Cape Charles MuseumOne of the Eastern Shore’s enduring charms is its historic architecture. From country homes to colonial ports, village churches to railroad towns, it’s nearly impossible to travel anywhere without seeing these treasures from the past. The county seats of Eastville and Accomac have court house commons and tiny colonial-era prisons along with a stellar housing stock spanning three centuries.  The glory years of the railroad are reflected in the abundant examples of Victorian architecture with towns such as Cape Charles and Parksley filled with these porch and gingerbread-adorned beauties. Garden Week in April provides an opportunity to tour several distinct Eastern Shore homes.         
   
Historic Hot Spots          

Cape Charles Museum and Welcome Center: “Hear” the locomotive whistle of the Ferryfounding railroad and “smell” the salt air on elegant steamers like the Elisha Lee, thanks to a rich archival photo collection that brings this 1886 bayside railroad town’s past to life. Models of sailing vessels, barges and ferries, mix with many vintage vestiges of daily life - a 1940s telephone switchboard, a local blacksmith’s handcart circa 1920. Outside an original Shore Courtesy of Thelma Petersonrailroad passenger station stands sentinel with classic caboose and baggage car. Walk back in time then walk out the door and down the same streets over a century later.      814 Randolph Avenue (757) 331-1008 or
www.smallmuseum.org/capechas.htm

Custis Tomb: Explore the scenic spot on the banks of Arlington Creek the historic site of Arlington Plantation. The grand manor house built in the 1670s by tobacco farmer John Custis II is no more, but its distinguished lineage lives on in the Arlington National Cemetery and the Custis-Lee home located there -- both named after this Eastern Shore home. Once the temporary capital of the Virginia Colony during Bacon’s Rebellion, the foundation found during architectural digs, a grave site and small exhibit tells its storied past with new interpretive signs. Southwest of Cape Charles, Arlington Rd. just off Rt. 13.   

Eyre Hall Gardens: Eyre Hall is one of Virginia’s finest and best-preserved colonial homes. Approached by a long, old-fashioned cedar-lined lane, the house  overlooks Cherrystone Creek. Thomas Eyre landed at Jamestown in 1622 to take up patented land on the Eastern Shore in 1623. Since then, Eyre descendents have owned land in the lower portion of Northampton County continuously for 12 generations. Littleton Eyre (great-grandson of Thomas) purchased the present site of Eyre Hall and in 1760 built the original gambrel-roofed portion. The gardens are among the oldest in the country, circa 1800. Ancient boxwood and gnarled crape myrtles tower over the traditional swept paths, all enclosed by a  wall of brick brought as ballast from England. On the sunny side, English-style mixed borders add color, and opposite is the family graveyard and romantic orangery ruin from 1819. The gardens are open to the public year-round, free of charge. Located on west side of Rt. 13 between Cheriton and Eastville. 

Barrier Islands Center:  The large Cobb’s Hotel ledger lies open to the page where 109 years ago a fountain pen swept across leaving swirls of fanciful script. For half a century the Cobb family drew the wealthy in droves to the shores of their namesake island. Today the Fishermanprestigious Victorian hotel is gone - vanished like nearly all traces of man from most of Virginia’s barrier islands. Relics and the remembrances of the people who once called these islands home could have been erased by the tides of time but luckily this captivating history is preserved and artfully displayed at the historic former “poorhouse farm”, along Rt. 13. Check out the Breeches Buoy Rig, what looks to be a humorous pair of old fashion drawers attached to a life preserving ring, actually a lifesaving tool used by the stalwart crews who manned the Life Saving Stations- the predecessor of the Coast Guard- on several barrier islands. Two floors are overflowing with fascinating artifacts of island life including watermen’s netting needles and a guitar played at the Red Onion- Hog Island’s dance hall. Northwest of Eastville, along Rt. 13 (757) 678-5550  www.barrierislandscenter.com

Ker PlaceKer Place: This stately historic Federal-style home turned museum has been authentically restored to its1799 roots welcoming visitors back to the world of John Shepherd Ker in the thriving port of Onancock. Tours are available of the periodically furnished house also home to the Eastern Shore Historical Society.  Exhibits expand to the newly opened cellar and on the attractive grounds. 9 Market St, Onancock (757)787-8012 www.kerplace.org



Eastern Shore Railroad Museum:
Train tracks lead into Parksley’s quaint town square Rail Museumwhere tiny shops and picture-perfect Victorian homes give the town the look of a model train village come to life. Step into the restored train station and step back in time when passengers purchased tickets or warmed themselves in front of the coal stoves. In the glory days of the iron horse 14 passenger trains a day stopped here. Today the train whistle can still be heard when the Eastern Shore Railroad passes through with freight cars. The main museum building is chock-full of railroad memorabilia from the many that operated on this peninsula since the mid-1800s. The 1927 Diplomat, an elegant parlor/lounge car, a jaunty 1949 caboose and a 1950 sleeper car are available for guided tours. (757) 665-RAIL.
 
NASA/Wallops Visitor Center: On the road to Chincoteague Island view the recently Wallopsrevamped museum with noteworthy exhibits ranging from a moon rock brought back from Apollo 17 astronauts to interactive computer displays including, “Fly Your Own Sounding Rocket” and ”Apollo Missions to the Moon”. The Observation Deck offers great views of the Wallops Main Base and runways along with Chincoteague and Wallops Island. Wallops Island launch site tours by advanced reservation. Located near Chincoteague Island. (757)824-1344

The Oyster and Maritime Museum: Guiding sailors for nearly a century the original Lens from MuseumAssateague Lighthouse Lens –one of the largest in the country –is reason enough to walk through the door, learning about life on and around the island is reason to stay a while. A group of island women founded the museum in 1965 and it was expanded in 1996. Fascinating exhibits focus on the Chincoteague Oyster so renowned in Civil War times that the island didn’t secede from the Union in part to avoid a blockade of its shellfish to Yankee ports. Along with traditional tools used in the oyster industry there’s a wealth of information on the gathering and processing of the bivalves, once a major part of the island’s economy. Located just before the entrance to the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. (757)336-5800  www.chincoteaguechamber.com/oyster/omm.html  

Carver - Courtesy of Reggie BirchRefuge Waterfowl Museum: Over 8000 square feet of beautifully displayed waterfowl history. Treasures include antique boats, guns, traps, art and decoys by various craftsmen distinguished in their fields, includes an extensive collection by island legends.
7059 Maddox Blvd, Chincoteague
(757)336-5800 chincoteaguechamber.com/i-refuge-waterfowl-museum.html

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